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For many situations, the advanced capabilities are not necessary. But running these tests requires some know-how, experience and caution. Most late-model vehicles have quite a few built-in self-checks that can be performed with a dealer or professional level scan tool. Most DIY scan tools do not have two-way “bidirectional” communications capability. An entry level scan tool with these features typically starts around $200 and goes up from there. To read sensor data, history codes, pending codes, snap shot data, the status of various switches, etc., you need a “real” scan tool, and the price jumps accordingly.
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So until that happens, the vehicle can’t be tested.Ī code reader can provide an inexpensive means of reading and clearing codes, and maybe even checking the status of the OBD II monitors, but that’s all. The EVAP and catalyst monitor are the slowest ones to run, and may require driving the vehicle several days and at various speeds and loads before they will run their self-checks. A vehicle is not considered “ready” to take an OBD II plug-in emissions test unless all of the required monitors have run. That’s where the readiness status comes in. But as soon as the vehicle is driven, the code may reset and the “Check Engine” light may come back on depending on the nature of the problem. Pressing a button wipes the codes from the computer’s memory and turns off the “Check Engine” light. Most code readers and scan tools can do just that. Some people wonder why you can’t just clear the codes before taking an emissions test. Why do you need to know readiness status? If all the monitors have run and no faults have been found (no codes set and no “Check Engine” light), it means the vehicle is in emissions compliance, is running clean and should pass either a tailpipe smog check or an OBD II plug-in emissions test.